Ile Sainte Marie
Sainte Marie, also called Nosy Boraha in the local language, is a paradise tropical island on the east of Madagascar. The quality of a dream beach holiday here is truly underrated. Sainte Marie is lush, wild and tropical. The island is 60 km long and 5 km wide. It takes 3 hours to go from south to north on a tuk-tuk. There is only one paved road on the entire island. The road is partly in good condition and partly with potholes.
How to get here
You can take a short 50-min flight from Antananarivo or, alternatively, you can take a long 7-hour bus ride to Tamatave and then continue to Mahambo for another 3 hours, where you can take a ferry the next morning (3,5 hours). The ferry takes around 3,5 hours.
Where to stay
Almost all the hotels are located on the left side of the island, in the south-western part of it, close to the airport and the main village of Ambodifototra. Further on, the northern half of the island is completely wild. There are just a few hotels in that part. Moving from south to north you will see less people and life, but you will find yourself surrounded by an exuberant green forest. Hotels here are rustic and charming.
When to visit
One can visit anytime, apart from January and March when the cyclones can be violent. Sainte Marie has a tropical rainforest climate, meaning that it is very humid. There is no specific rain season, as it rains throughout the year. Temperatures are pleasant year round (25 – 30 °C).
Things to do in Sainte Marie
- Heavenly beaches: There is no mass tourism here. The least beautiful beaches are in the south-west of Sainte Marie where the majority of the hotels are. The amazing beaches are off the beaten track, in the north-west of the island, next to the Les Tipaniers Lodge, on a private property in the south-east, and some are accessible only by boat. More accessible dreamy beaches are on Île aux Nattes! The most beautiful and clearest turquoise water is on the eastern parts of Sainte Marie, which is more exposed to cyclones and winds. In the south-west of Sainte Marie you cannot swim in the sea because of sea urchins! Some hotels have a peer that leads you further away from the beach to avoid them.
- Snorkeling: There are no sharks. The turquoise lagoon which surrounds the island and the coral reef keep the sharks away.
- Whale watching: Whale season is between July and September. Gigantic humpback whales migrate from the Antarctic to reproduce in the warm Indian Ocean around Madagascar. You can even see them from the hotels, without taking an excursion.
- History of Pirates: in the 17th & 18th century almost the entire population were pirates, 1000 people. It was a perfect location to attack ships and merchants who were passing through the Indian Ocean. The pirate graveyard is still present on the island. The amazing location of the cemetery is accessible by boat, situated on top of an island, surrounded by lush green vegetation, with a beautiful view on the sea. Today, 30 headstones remain. Not only pirates were buried here, but also sailors, merchants and colonists. Many blue-eyed inhabitants of Sainte Marie are descendants of the pirates.
- Natural Pools: Drive from the south to the very north-east of St Marie (3 hours) to get here. You will see the huge black rocks that create a natural barrier for 3 protected natural pools. There are some traditional fady (taboos) which you need to respect here: you can’t walk here with shoes on, you can’t swim in pool number 3, you can’t go there if you ate pork. Pool number 3 is the most beautiful one and and it is only allowed to admire it, but not to swim in it.
Île aux Nattes
Île aux Nattes is a tiny island, only 3 km long and 2 km wide. There are no roads and no cars. You can walk across the island on sandy or grassy paths. The curved white sand beaches and crystal clear turquoise lagoon surrounded by a coral reef is really heavenly on Île aux Nattes. There is no permanent electricity and water supply, like on St Marie. The eco lodges are careful about their consumption, but nature is really exuberant here.
How to get here
You can take a short boat ride from Ile Sainte Marie. It can take between 5 to 30 min, depending if you are going north or south of the island.
Where to Stay
Almost all the bungalows are located on the calmer left side of the lagoon (the right side is washed by the rougher oceanic waves). It’s very peaceful here, with a castaway vibe. The bungalows are really simple and rustic. If you prefer a more lively atmosphere, Ile St Marie would be a better choice.
Things to do
Take a boa ride to the paradise sand banks with birds (1 hour). The three tiny and long Îlots aux Sables – Nosy Rinditra, Nosy Andromba and Nosy Alanana – are located 4 km off the island of Sainte Marie, in a breathtaking turquoise lagoon, surrounded by a magnificent coral reef covered with white. Big waves are breaking over the reef outside the lagoon. You can swim on the sides, but between the sandbanks the current is strong. It is fady to go there on Tuesdays and Thursdays. It is also fady to wear something red and to have your shoes on.
Note
Île aux Nattes beaches are full of sand fleas! They bite and it’s annoying, so you have to put some product like coconut oil or mosquitoe spray while on the beach or even in the room.
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